Food & Drink – Jan/Feb 2009

Drowning in Flavor: Water Unique Sushi Restaurant
By Michelle Baker

I was in need of Water (the Japanese-inspired sushi restaurant) as I stepped into 1015 S. Howard Ave, but what I saw seemed more like a mirage. There was a Water sign on the outside of the building. There were Water signs on the inside of the building. And the Water logo was on all the menus. So why was I in standing in Ciccio & Tony’s Italian Restaurant?

Upon being seated, I asked my waiter what was up. He informed me that the owners of C&T (Jeff Gigante, James Lanza and Luis Flores) and Water are one in the same. And although the Hyde Park C&T has been a local favorite since opening in 1996, when Water opened in 2005, it failed to garner as much attention. The solution? Combine the two into one ultimate nosh spot.

Realizing that I had indeed found my destination, I (always being the optimist) prepared myself for a bad meal. I mean, this was the flagship of SoHo chains … and a chain-gang-girl I am not. Yeah, I know I sound snobby. But having an executive chef husband at home ,who uses our kitchen to churn out made-from-scratch Foie Gras, Truffles and other gastronomical delights, has made me a little spoiled.

My level of enthusiasm took another dive when I saw the sheer size of the menu. If you’re a food geek like me, you’ve certainly heard Kitchen Nightmares’ Chef Gordon Ramsey scream at meek and bewildered restaurant owners who create menus longer than five pages. Well, Ramsey would blow a gasket if he saw the eight-pager (not counting the night’s special menu) that I was holding. Why? Because typically, a restaurant that offers too many selections is unable to properly maintain their quality. Key word, “typically.”

It took me a good 10 minutes to decide on an appetizer, which wasn’t a bad thing because my server’s attention had been diverted elsewhere. When he returned, I placed my order for the special, Tempura Edamame ($5.50), only to be told it was sold out. I was forced to switch to my back-up plan, Water Guacamole ($7.50) and the Tuna Poki Water Bowl ($8.50).

With an uncanny timing, as my waiter walked away from my table the restaurant’s lights dimmed and I could hear a low, relaxing soundtrack with a club-bump vibe circulating through the room.

The glass of wine I ordered ($6-$7) came out first, accompanied by some delicious Parmesan Focaccia Bread and a dip of Balsamic Vinegar and Herb Oil. Both were followed quickly by half of my first course: the Water Guacamole.

Served with light and crispy circular Fried Wonton Chips (fanned in a heaping bowl of green goodness), the guac was easily big enough to be a meal on its own. My first bite punched my tongue with an odd citrus flavor, which almost certainly was Yuzu (a Japanese fruit). The follow up swing landed with another note of acid, possibly rice wine vinegar. Then the knock out blow came in the form of a tad bit of heat; possibly Sriracha chili paste, combined with little tomato and shallot. It was refreshing, perfectly creamy and packed with a powerhouse of flavors I would’ve never thought to pair with guacamole.

It was so good that I had to stop myself short of licking the bottom of the bowl. And as strange as the dish may sound, it actually makes a lot of sense when you remember that Avocado is commonly served on sushi … So why not make guacamole?

As I diverted my attention to the Tuna Poki Water Bowl that had arrived nearly unnoticed during my bout with the chips, I saw it was a simple bowl of Sticky Rice, Julienned Jicama (a cross between an apple and a potato), marinated and cubed (raw) Tuna, black Sesame Seeds and a little Cilantro garnish.

Upon tasting it, I didn’t get the same 1-2-3 punch to the kisser as I did from its predecessor, but had I tried it first, it may have been a different story. But in any case, the Water Bowl was exactly as it should have been. The Tuna was very fresh, firm and well marinated with various Asian staples, including ponzu, soy and rice wine vinegar. The sticky rice had that familiar nutty note; and as for the jicama, it pairs well with any form of raw tuna. Despite placing second to the guac, the dish was good … really good.

Choosing my entrées for the night came a little easier than my 10-minute mull over the appetizer menu. They were to be a Spicy Diablo Clear Roll ($12) and a Volcano Nori Roll ($12).

I had to try the Clear Roll, as Water has developed a reputation for them (in part by using rice paper instead of the Nori (seaweed paper) wrapping of traditional sushi). To that point, my initial thought was, “big deal, it’s a spring roll.” But the experience I was in the midst of had changed my mindset to one of a percolating anticipation.

As for why I chose the Volcano roll, there’s a simple answer: it’s one of my favorite of the cooked sushi rolls. It’s usually spicy, creamy and flavorful. Water’s menu indicated that their version included a warm seafood dip; a twist that I thought was intriguing. Well, maybe “intriguing” is the wrong word; perhaps “repulsive” was better suited. But I had to do it. Water had already won me over twice.

My server – who had gone from ok, to good, to fantastic – brought the rolls to me on a small, beautiful platter. The Diablo was presented as a tail-like arch, sliced eight very large pieces. Meanwhile, the eight-pieced Volcano was equally robust and mounted in an artful explosion of seafood dip. Both sat on a plate drizzled delicately with Sriracha aioli and a kabayaki glaze (a sweet soy sauce reduction).

I first dove into the Diablo Clear Roll, which seemed to be missing something. It was surrounded by sticky rice, but I couldn’t find a trace of rice paper. It didn’t matter to me. Once again, the tuna was fresh and firm; tightly wrapped with diakon sprouts (a Japanese radish) and just enough tempura fried onions for a perfect contrast of soft and crunchy. As if this weren’t enough, the entire roll was laced with the fire red jewels of sushi, tobikko (flying fish row). The Sriracha aioli added a slightly spicier depth, which rounded out the roll. It was also nutty, creamy, crunchy, salty and a little sweet. Sushi lovers take note; the Diablo may be the perfect spicy tuna roll.

After the Diablo making for a perfect 3-0 start, I no longer had reservations about smearing a huge piece of Volcano Roll with the previously reviled seafood dip. With a bite, it was bliss … a taste explosion of crab, cucumber, avocado, scallions, cream cheese, crispy tempura onions, wonton flakes, kabayaki glaze and Sriracha aioli (which had been drizzled on the roll), as well as the dip’s delicate, creamy mixture of cooked fish and crab. It was sensational. No, make that sin-sational!

Since I was on a roll (ugh – puns!), I reluctantly ordered more food. “Reluctantly,” because my stomach was beyond the point of full. I knew I didn’t want to continue the gluttony, but neither did I want to stop it. I gave in … but only after being subjected to a parade of temptations floating by me on the way to apparently not-so-full diners: pasta bowls ($11.75-$14.95), pizzas ($4.95-$10.75), unique salads ($5.50-$6.95), stir-frys ($9.25-$13.95), lettuce wraps ($9.95-$12.95) and more.

It was the Brazilian California Bowl (all bowls $9.45) that was my ultimate downfall. Although it came from the Ciccio & Tony’s side of the house, I just had to know how it looked, smelled and tasted.

It was served in a gigantic, beautiful bowl and I could smell a slight waft of cumin and scallion omitted from the steam that came out of it. Peering inside revealed blackened chopped chicken, black beans, avocado, corn, sour cream, cheddar cheese and crispy lettuce; all lying atop a bed of steamed yellow rice.

The chicken was seasoned very well with a little heat behind it; while the accoutrement of South Western-styled vegetables was cooked just right (not under, not over). Topping off the bowl was a Mexican-style guacamole (just as flavorful as its Asian-inspired cousin), a fresh chucky pico de gallo (or salsa, as they called it) and sour cream. I’d never believe it was indigenous to Brazil … but who cares?

If you can’t tell by now, my life pretty much revolves around food. I own a personal chef and catering company with my husband. I’m a weekly food writer for the Tampa Tribune. And I’m a food stylist and a highly-read food blogger. It’s for these reasons that I am often asked by Tampa newcomers where my favorite places are to eat. Inevitably, I often choke up a small Mom and Pop in one of my favorite, non-hot-spot neighborhoods. This is because I’ve never believed a hot spot could live up to its name.

I am both regretful and happy to say that I’ve been wrong. I now stand humbled by Water/Ciccio & Tony’s. It’s not a mirage. The restaurants’ impeccably high quality of food, atmosphere and service come together to form the perfect place for any date night, family function, business lunch or simple hangout.


Water Unique Sushi Restaurant
(part of Ciccio & Tony’s)
1015 S. Howard Ave.
(813) 251-8406
www.CiccioAndTonys.com

Rating: 4 ½ HP Stickers

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